In this ongoing series, two French bartenders share their takes on Parisian bar and café society, their neighborhoods, and, bien sur, 1664 Blanc. As we like to say, think of the series as an informal tour guide to the real Paris in two parts.
NOVICES, PARIS 18ème
Not too big, not too small, Novices on rue Caulaincourt in the 18th arrondisement is a pretty hip affair. Yet beautifully understated. The bar dates from the beginning of the 20th century and still has the original tiling and moulding, giving it a feeling you can only find in the City of Lights. The manager/bartender Roland, an effusive guy, clearly relishes his role at Novices and that adds even more to its welcoming feel. The clientele is mostly from the neighborhood, loads of regulars, with a few tourists thrown in for good measure. “We see the same people each week – it’s like a big family,” he says. “So when tourists come, we just treat them like family too.”
Serving resolutely modern French cuisine, it also serves a resolutely modern wheat beer. Giving us the lowdown on 1664 Blanc, Roland told us, “We’ve served it for years, it’s what our customers ask for the most. It’s fresh, perfect for summer – but we sell it in winter, of course, because we like the taste.” There’s no better reason.
WHERE SHALL WE GO TOMORROW?
For fun we asked 18th-dwelling Roland where he would send Blanc-drinkers if they came to Novices for dinner tonight and wanted an insiders suggestion for where they should eat tomorrow night to get in a tourist-free experience. Here’s his suggestion - La Padampadam. 29 rue Veron - run by his friends Marine and Elodie. One cooks, the other holds court in the little dining room. You’re welcome!
TERRASS’HOTEL, PARIS 18ème
At the corner of rues Joseph de Maistre and Caulaincourt stands an exceptional hotel. Relatively unassuming for a four-star hotel, at least from the outside, the Terrass’Hotel is elegant and cool. The best part of this Montmartre gem? The rooftop view of all Paris from its fabulous restaurant and bar on the 7th floor. Comfy, classy, and quite well hidden, there’s no better way to enjoy Paris with friends on a warm summer evening then enveloped in one of its many couches.
UP ON THE ROOF
We spoke to manager Romain Legrand about why he chose to include 1664 Blanc on the bar’s very selective menu. “It’s just so refreshing,” he said. “With its citrus notes, it goes hand in hand with a French summer.” 1664 blanc is so synonymous with summer that the bar only serves it during the warmest months of the year. As Romain points out, the terrace bar is only open when it is warm anyway (though the restaurant – and view – is open all year). Both are best enjoyed with liberal helpings of short-sleeve weather and spectacular sunsets.